Monday, May 17, 2010

Santo Domingo de la Calzada - a cock in a church

Oh my God! Sick people all around me!!! People with banadages around both feet, people being brought to hospitals with putrified heels, people in bed from the afternoon on, people giving up, people limping on - slowly the Camino takes it toll. I´m in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, only a mere 15km from where I was yesterday, but it´s so beautiful here and there´s so much to see that I decided to stay. I´m in a brandnew pilgrim´s albergue, with boiling hot showers, heaven! And in the room I´m gonna sleep in, are half the beds already full with people sleeping. What is that all about? They sleep, then they cook & eat, then they go to bed at 9pm, then they leave at 7am. That´s not for me. I found a quote in my diary which I wrote on the blackboard in the classroom last night: "The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are travelling for. (Louis L´Amour)" Right he is!
I´m not a morning person at all. I find it very hard to get used to those early mornings.... I´m always the last to get up and the last to leave the albergue. Then I head straight to the next bar to wake myself up with a little breakfast and a couple of coffees before heading out at least an hour later than everyone else. By this time, sometimes, I can already meet pilgrims from places 12 or more km behind me! But the evenings are even worse to get used to. The albergues mostly close at 10pm. By which time 99% of the pilgrims are already wrapped in their sleeping bags, snoring away (oh, don´t get me started on this! I have to write a little blog just about things pilgrims do.....) Most of the time I´m sneaking around with my flashlight, trying to brush my teeth, get into bed, find my ear plugs etc., feeling like a total scoundrel for not sleeping already!
Back to this place where I´m planning to see things as well (instead of sleeping), especially the church with the cock ;) There is a legend for which this place is famous: a couple and their son were on a pilgrimage to Santiago and stayed in an inn. The daughter of the innkeeper fell in love with the son, but he wasn´t interested and the next morning the three moved on. But the scorned maid secretly put a silver cup into the son´s luggage, accusing him of stealing it, so the boy was sentenced to death by hanging. When the parents went past the hanging tree again, they discovered that their son was alive, being supported by Santo Domingo. They ran to the judge, who was just having dinner, telling him about the miracle and their son´s innocence, but the judge replied "your son is as dead as those two chicken I´m eating". With that the two chicken became alive and flew away! And since then they keep a hen and a cock in the cathedral. And if I´m lucky enough and the cock crows when I´m inside, then my camino will end successfully. Well, I´m just gonna stay in that cathedral until the bloody cock crows!
So now, instead of telling you about the last two days I´m going to try and do a new post with..... tatatadaaaa.....- pictures!
Hope it´ll work!

2 comments:

  1. Hallo Aenne,
    vielleicht fragst du jetzt: Wer ist noch "Christel Wolff"? Das ist die aus dem Sauerland - denk mal an die Zeit vor 25 Jahren in Jugoslawien.
    Ich verfolge deinen Weg mit großem Interesse und werde Pfingstsamstag in Santo Domingo de la Calzada mindestens ein Glas (oder vielleicht auch mehr) Rioja auf dein Wohl trinken. Ich werde mit meinem Spanisch-Kurs über Pfingsten Rioja bereisen (mit dem Auto).
    Vor zwei Jahren sind wir - natürlich auch mit Autos - den Jakobsweg von Burgos bis Santiago gefahren.
    Meine guten Wünsche begleiten dich auf deinem Weg.
    Liebe Grüße
    Christel

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  2. Ja hallihallo! So eine Ueberraschung! Freue mich, dass Du mein Abenteuer mitverfolgst! Pfingsten in Santo Domingo war sicher gut - ich bin dafuer gestern in Fromista von einem Barman ueber´s Ohr gehauen worden: 16 Euro fuer 3 Tapas und ein Glas Rotwein!! War so platt, dass ich nicht mal reagierte..... Aber ab sofort werde ich den Schlitzohren sagen: No soy loca!!
    Tschuessi! :)

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